Izizathu zokuzama ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba sokuguga
Njengokuba inani elikhulayo lophando likhangele kwizinto ezibangele imibimbi kunye nemiphumo yokufaka isithombe , ukusetyenziswa kwe-beta hydroxy acid kuye kwanda kakhulu ekuthandeni. Kukho iintlobo ezimbini ze-hydroxy acid: i-alpha kunye ne-beta. I-Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) ziyi-exfoliants ezivela kwiziqhamo kunye nobisi ushukela ezifana ne- glycolic acid , eveliswa kwi-sugar cane kunye ne-lactic acid (ekhutshwa ebisi).
Kukho enye i-beta ye-hydroxy acid (BHA) esetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwimveliso yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, kwaye yiyo yindidi ye-salicylic, evela kwi-aspirin.
Indlela i-Beta Hydroxy Acid isebenza ngayo
I-Beta i-hydroxy acid isebenza ngokukodwa njengengxowankulu. Yibangela ukuba iiseli ze- epidermis (ingqimba elingaphandle kwesikhumba) "zingabonakali," ukuvumela iiseli zesikhumba ezifile ukuba zitshintshe, zenze indawo yokubuyiswa kwesikhumba esitsha. I-Beta i-hydroxy acid ibikwa ukuba iphuculise ukudibanisa, ukugqithisa, kunye nokugqithisa kwesikhumba se-photodagedaged emva kweenyanga ezintandathu kwisicelo somhla. I-Beta i-hydroxy acid efumaneka kwimveliso ye-skincare isebenza kakuhle kwi-concentration ye-1% ukuya kwi-2 ekhulwini kunye ne-pH ye-3 ukuya kwi-4.
Umehluko phakathi kwe-Alpha kunye ne-Beta Hydroxy Acids
Uhlobo oluphambili phakathi kwe-alpha hydroxy acids kunye ne-beta hydroxy acid yi-lipid (i-oli). I-Alpha hydroxy acids i-soluble yamanzi kuphela, ngelixa i-beta hydroxy acid i-lipid-soluble, ithetha ukuba iya kutshatyalaliswa kwioli.
Oku kuthetha ukuba i-beta hydroxy acid iyakwazi ukungena kwi-pore, equkethe i-sebum enamafutha kwaye ikhuphe iiseli zesikhumba ezifayo ngaphakathi kwipore. Ngenxa yolu phawu kwiipropati, i-beta hydroxy acid isetyenziswe kangcono kwesikhumba seoli kunye namhlophe kunye namhlophe . I-Alpha hydroxy acids isetyenziswe kangcono kwi-isikhumba esikhatyelwe yelanga apho ukuphumla akuyona ingxaki.
Sensitivity
Ukusetyenziswa kwe-beta hydroxy acid kunokunyusa ukuzwela kwelanga ngama-50 ekhulwini, kubangela umdla obangel 'umdla. Kubonakala ukuba i-beta hydroxy acid ingakwazi ukuguqula umonakalo obangelwa ukufakela ngezithombe, kodwa ngexesha elifanayo, kwenza ukuba isikhumba sibe sesichengeni sokwenza isithombe. Kucacile ukuba nabani na osebenzisa i-beta hydroxy acid kufuneka basebenzise i-sunscreen entle ene- UVA kunye ne- UVB yokukhusela.
Jonga i-Skin Irritation
I-beta i-hydroxy acid ibonakala ingacasuli ngaphezu kwe-alpha hydroxy acid, nangona ingena emngeni. Oku kwenzeka ngenxa yokuba i-salicylic acid ivela kwi-acetylsalicylic acid okanye i-aspirin. I-Aspirin inezixhobo ezichasayo, kunye ne- salicylic acid igcina ezininzi zezi ndawo ezichasayo. Nangona kunjalo, i-beta i-hydroxy acid isenokubangela ukukhungulwa kwesikhumba. Iimpawu zokucaphukisa ziquka ubomvu, ukutshisa, ukubetha, intlungu, kunye nokutsala. Abantu abanesikhumba esilumnyama basengozini ephezulu yokutshintsha iinguqu ze-pigment nge-beta hydroxy acid.
Ukusebenzisa i-Beta Hydroxy Acid
I-Beta i-hydroxy acid ifumaneka kwiinkalo ezahlukeneyo zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kubandakanya i- moisturizers , abahlambululi, i-cream cream, i-sunscreen, kunye neziseko. Kungcono ukhethe umkhiqizo owodwa oqulethe ukusetyenziswa ngendlela eyiyo ye-beta hydroxy acid ukuze usebenzise njengokuba ungenayo i-exfoliant, kwaye ukhethe ezinye iimveliso zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba okanye izimonyo ezingenayo i-hydroxy acids ukunciphisa amathuba okuthukuthela kwesikhumba.
Ukusebenzisa i-beta hydroxy acid kwisiseko se-moisturizer ingaba ngcono. Abacebisi abaqukethe i-beta i-hydroxy acid abaphumelelanga kakhulu kuba i-beta hydroxy acid kufuneka ifakwe kwesikhumba ukuze isebenze. Abahlambululi bahlanjululwa ngaphambi kokuba kuqhutywe.
Akukho mveliso esebenzayo edibanisa i-beta hydroxy acid kunye ne- sunscreen ngenxa yokuba i-suncreen ayizinzile kwi-pH efunekayo ukwenza i-beta hydroxy acid isebenze. I-sunscreen kufuneka isetyenziswe ngokukhululekile xa usebenzisa i-beta hydroxy acid. I-sunscreen kufuneka ibe ne- SPF ye-15 ye-UVB yokukhusela (mhlawumbe i-30 okanye ngaphezulu) kunye ne-avobenzone, titanium dioxide, okanye i-zinc oxide yokukhusela i-UVA.
I-Beta i-hydroxy acid isebenza kakuhle kwi-concentration ye-1 ukuya kwi-2 ekhulwini kunye ne-pH ye-3 ukuya kwe-4. Ngelishwa, abavelisi bezityalo abangekho mfuneko ukuba bafumane ulwazi lwe-pH kwilebula. Indlela yodwa yokwazi i-pH yemveliso kukuyivavanya nge-pH strip.
Ngokungafani ne-alpha hydroxy acid, ekufuneka ibhalwe kwiintlobo ezithathu eziphezulu ukubonisa ukuxinwa okufanelekileyo, i-beta hydroxy acid ingabhalwa phakathi okanye kwinqanaba lezithako ngenxa yokuba liphumelela kwiindawo eziphantsi.
> Umthombo:
> I-Beta Hydroxy Acids. US Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIzixhobo /Izixhobo / cuc101043.htm.