Ingaba i-Alpha Hydroxy Acid Skin Peel inganciphisa ama-wrinkles?
Ngophando olwandayo kwizinto ezibangela ukuphazamiseka kunye nemiphumo ye-photoaging , i-alpha hydroxy acids yanda kakhulu ekuthandeni.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids sele isetyenziselwe iwaka leminyaka njengomkhiqizo ovuselela isikhumba. I-Cleopatra ibikwa ukuba ihlambe ngobisi olubi (i-lactic acid) ukuphucula umbala wakhe. Ngoku i-hydroxy acid i-additi eqhelekileyo kwimveliso yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, kuquka i- moisturizers , i-cleaners, i-toners kunye nemaski.
Uqwalaselo kunye neentlobo ze-Alpha Hydroxy Acids
I-Alpha hydroxy acids ivela kwizityalo kunye noshukela. I-alpha hydroxy acids esetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo yi- glycolic acid kunye ne-lactic acid kuba banekhono elikhethekileyo lokungena kwesikhumba. Kwakhona baneenkcukacha zenzululwazi ngokusebenza kwazo kunye nemiphumo emibi. Ezi zilandelayo ziintlobo ezinhlanu eziphambili ze-alpha hydroxy acid ezifumaneka kwimveliso ye-skincare kunye nemithombo yazo:
- I-Glycolic acid: i-sugar cane
- I-acid ye-latic: ubisi
- I-Malic acid : ii-apula kunye namapheya
- I-asidi ye-Citric: ii-oranges kunye ne-lemons
- I-tartaric acid: iidiliya
Indlela i-Alpha Hydroxy Acids Work kwiKhumba
I-Alpha hydroxy acids isebenze ngokukodwa njengento engapheliyo . Bangela ukuba iiseli ze- epidermis (uluhlu oluphezulu lwesikhumba) lube "lukhuni" ukuvumela iiseli zesikhumba ezifile ukuba zitshintshe, zenze indawo yokubuyiswa kwesikhumba esitsha. I-Alpha hydroxy acids inokukhuthaza nokuveliswa kwe-collagen kunye ne-elastin.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids ixelwa ukuba iphuculwe ukuguquka, ukugqithisa kunye nokugqithisa kwesikhumba sesikhumba emva kweenyanga zesicelo ngasinye.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids efunyenwe kwimveliso ye-skincare isebenze kakuhle kwi-concentration ye-5 ukuya kuma-8 ekhulwini kunye ne-pH ye-3 ukuya kwe-4.
Imiphumo emibi ye-Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Iziphumo ezimbini ezibalulekileyo ze-alpha hydroxy acids ziyacaphuka kunye nokuzwela kwelanga. Iimpawu zomsindo ziquka ubomvu, ukutshisa, ukubetha, intlungu kunye nokutsala.
Abantu abanesikhumba esilumnyama basengozini enkulu yokutshintsha iingubo ze-pigment nge-alpha hydroxy acids. Ukusetyenziswa kwe-alpha hydroxy acids kunokunyusa ukuvezwa kwelanga ngama-50 ekhulwini, okubangela umdla obangel 'umdla.
Kubonakala ukuba i-alpha hydroxy acids inokukwazi ukubuyisela umonakalo obangelwa ukufakela isithombe, kodwa ngexesha elifanayo, benza ukuba lukhuni lukhunjulwe. Kucacile ukuba nabani na osebenzisa i-alpha hydroxy acids kufuneka basebenzise i-sunscreen enhle equlethe i- UVA kunye ne- UVB . Qaphela ukuba ezininzi i-sunscreens ayikhuseli kwii-ray ze-UVA, imibala eninzi echaphazelekayo ekugugeni kwebala.
Izikhokelo ze-FDA
Ngenxa yokukhathazeka ngenxa yeempembelelo ze-alpha hydroxy acids, i-FDA ngo-1997 yamemezela ukuba i-alpha hydroxy acids ikhuselekile ukusetyenziswa ngabathengi ngezi zikhokelo ezilandelayo:
- Uxinzelelo lwe-AHA yi-10 ekhulwini okanye ngaphantsi
- Imveliso yokugqibela ine-pH ye-3.5 okanye ngaphezulu
- Imveliso yokugqibela kufuneka ibe ne-sunscreen esebenzayo ekuqulunqweni okanye ixwayise abantu ukuba basebenzise iimveliso zelanga
Amachiza eKhemikhali
I-Alpha hydroxy acids kwiindidi ezahlukeneyo zisetyenziselwa iipelisi zamakhemikhali. Ezi iipilisi zeekhemikhali zinika iziphumo ezifana ne- microdermabrasion -erasing fine lines kunye nokwenza ulusu lubukeke ngendlela elula kunye nesicelo esinye.
Ezi zonyango kufuneka ziphindwe rhoqo emva kweenyanga ezintathu ukuya ezintandathu ukugcina ukubonakala kwesikhumba. Oogqirha bangasebenzisa iimveliso ze-alpha hydroxy acid ezine-50 ukuya kuma-70 ekhulwini. I-Alpha hydroxy yamachiza e-peel yonyango iphinda isuse imibimbi emihle kwaye isuse amacembe omhlaba, kodwa iimpendulo zihlala ixesha elide-ukuya kwiminyaka emibili ukuya kwemihlanu.
Iphakamileyo ye-alpha hydroxy acid ingxube esetyenzisiweyo kwi-peel peel, i-skin irritation yenzeke ngakumbi. Kuxinaniso lwama-50 ukuya kuma-70 ekhulwini, umntu angalindela ukuba obomvu obunzima, ukukhwabanisa nokukhupha isikhumba esingapheli kwiiveki ezi-1 ukuya kwezi-4.
I-Alpha neBeta Hydroxy Acids
Kukho i- beta eyodwa ye-hydroxy acid : i- salicylic acid .
Uhlobo oluphambili phakathi kwe-alpha hydroxy acids kunye ne-beta hydroxy acid yi-lipid (i-oli). I-Alpha hydroxy acids i-soluble yamanzi kuphela, ngelixa i-beta hydroxy acid i-lipid (i-oli) i-soluble. Oku kuthetha ukuba i-beta hydroxy acid inako ukungena ngaphakathi kwipore, equkethe i-sebum kwaye ikhuphe iiseli zesikhumba eziye zakhiwa ngaphakathi kwipore.
Ngenxa yolu phawu kwiipropati, i-beta hydroxy acid isetyenziswe kangcono kwikhumba elinamafutha kunye namacwecwe . I-Alpha hydroxy acids isetyenziswe kangcono kwi-isikhumba esikhatyelwe yelanga apho ukuphumla akuyona ingxaki.
Ukukhetha i-Alpha Hydroxy Acid Product
I-Alpha hydroxy acids ifumaneka kwiintlobo zeemveliso zemveliso, kuquka i-moisturizers, i-cleaner, i-cream cream, i-sunscreen, kunye neziseko. Nangona kunjalo, kukulungele ukhethe umkhiqizo owodwa oqulethwe ngendlela efanelekileyo ye-alpha hydroxy acid ukuze usebenzise njengokuba ungenayo i-exfoliant, kwaye ukhethe ezinye iimveliso zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba okanye izimonyo ezingenayo i-alpha hydroxy acids ukunciphisa amathuba okuthukuthela kwesikhumba.
Ukusebenzisa i-alpha hydroxy acid kwisiseko se-moisturizer ingaba yintlangano engcono yeemveliso. Abacebisi abaqukethe i-alpha hydroxy acids ayisebenzisi kakuhle kuba i-alpha hydroxy acid kufuneka ibandakanywe kwesikhumba ukuze isebenze. Abahlambululi bahlanjululwa ngaphambi kokuba kuqhutywe.
I-sunscreen kufuneka isetyenziswe ngokukhululekile xa usebenzisa i-alpha hydroxy acid. I-sunscreen kufuneka ibe ne- SPF ye-15 ye-UVB yokukhusela kunye ne-avobenzone, i-titanium dioxide okanye i-oxide ye-zinc yokukhusela i-UVA.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids isebenze kakuhle kwi-concentration ye-5 ukuya kwi-8 ekhulwini kunye ne-pH ye-3 ukuya kwe-4. Ngelishwa, abavelisi bezityalo abangekho mfuneko yokuba banikele ngolwazi lokuxininisa kwilebula. Njengomgaqo jikelele wesohlwayo, ukuba ne-alpha hydroxy acid ibhalwe njengesiqhelo sesibini okanye sesithathu kwoluhlu kwenza kube lula ukuba iqulethe ngokufanelekileyo. Indlela yodwa yokwazi ngokuqinisekileyo ukuba i-pH yemveliso kukuvavanya nge-pH strip.
Ngaphantsi kwe-Alpha Hydroxy Acids yokuNcipha
I-Alpha hydroxy acids njengecandelo kwi-moisturizers, i-creams, okanye ezinye iimveliso zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba zingasusa umonakalo obangelwa ukufaka isithombe. Ngendlela yohlobo lweekhemikhali, ngokukodwa kwizikhundla eziphezulu kwiofisi yoogqirha, ezi zi-acids zingaphucula ukubonakala kwemibimbi emihle kunye nezikrakra ukuya kwiminyaka embalwa. I-Alpha hydroxy acids ithambekele ekusebenzeni kangcono kubantu abanomzimba oqinileyo, onobungozi belanga, ngelixa i-beta hydroxy acids ingaba yinto ekhethekileyo kulabo abane-acne skin.
Nangona banako ukuphucula ukubonakala kwesikhumba esonakaliswe ilanga, i-alpha hydroxy acids inokunyusa ukwanda kwelanga kunye nokwandisa umngcipheko wengozi yesikhumba ngokukhanya kwelanga. Ukugqoka i-sunscreen enhle ebandakanya ukuhanjiswa kwee-UVA kunye ne-UVB imitha kubalulekile ukuba ukhetha ukusebenzisa le mveliso.
> Imithombo:
> Tran, D., Townley, J., Barnes, T., noK. Greive. I-Antiaging Skin Care System equkethe i-Alpha Hydroxy Acids kunye neeVithamini Iphucula i-Biomechanical Parameters yobuso besikhumba. I-Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology . 2014. 8: 9-17.
> I-Weller, uRichard PJB, uHamish JA Hunter kunye noMargaret W. Mann. Dermatological Clinic. Chichester (West Sussex): John Wiley & Sons Inc., 2015. Print.