Umehluko phakathi kweRetinol, Retin-A, kunye nama-Retinoids
Izithako zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba zingadideka, ngakumbi xa zinegama elifanayo lokulila: Retinol, Retin-A , retinoids. Uphi umehluko?
Ngelixa zonke ezi zithako zidibeneyo, zinemibono enkulu. Ukufunda indlela yokwahlula phakathi kwabo bonke baya kukunceda ukhethe lowo oza kulunge ulusu lwakho.
Ziziphi i-Retinoids?
I-Retinoid yegama elisetyenziswe ukuchaza iqela leemveliso ezifumaneka kwi-vitamin A.
I-retinoids yizinto ezidityanisiweyo kwihlabathi lokunyamekela kwesikhumba ngenxa yokuba zenza kangangoko isikhumba.
Xa usebenzisa i-retinoids rhoqo, ithoni yakho yesikhumba iya kuba yinyani, ukukhanya kwesikhumba kubushelele, kunye nebala lakho lonke liya kukhanya. I-Retinoids inokunyusa umveliso we-collagen, kwaye ubungqina bokuba bubonisa ukuba banokwandisa imveliso ye-elastin. Njengoko unokucinga, oku kwenza i-retinoids i-anti-agers esebenzayo kwaye isetyenziswe ukukhusela nokuguqula iimpawu zokuguga.
I-Retinoids ibuye iqhube ixabiso lentengo yokubuyiswa kwee-cell , kwaye inokukunceda ukuvula ii-pores. Ngoko i-retinoids nayo isetyenziselwa ukunyanga iimfene.
I-Retinol kunye ne-Retin-A bobabini i-retinoids. Zizo zombini zifumaneka kwivithamini A. Oku kuchaza ukuba kutheni banamagama afanayo azwakalayo. Cinga ngale ndlela: I-Retinol kunye ne-Retin-A ziintlobo ze-retinoids, njengokuba i-apple kunye neqhosha eliphambili yiindidi zeepes.
Ezi azinjalo kuphela ze-retinoids eziphezulu ezikhoyo, nangona kunjalo. I-Retin-A Micro (i-tretinoin) , i-Renova (tretinoin), i-Tazorac (i-tazarotene) yonke i-retinoids.
I-Differin, xa kwakusetyenziswa imithi yonyango kuphela ekhoyo kwi-counter, idla ngokuphindaphindiweyo kwiqela le-retinoid. Nangona isithako esisebenzayo kwi- Differin (i-adapalene) asiyiyo i-retinoid ye-technically, isebenza ngokukodwa ngendlela efanayo. Ngoko, ungabona kwakhona i-Differin efakwe njenge-repinoid retinoid okanye i-retinoid-like comound.
Yintoni iReinol?
Ngoko ngoku uyazi ukuba i-retinol ne-Retin-A zombini iindidi ze-retinoids. Kodwa yintoni umehluko phakathi kwezi zibini?
I-Retinol ifomu yemvelo ye-vitamin A. Itholakala kwiinkqubo ezininzi zonyango kunye nemikhiqizo yobuhle. Inokukunceda ukwenza isikhumba sakho sibonakale sibonakala siphumelele, kwaye siziva sinyameko kwaye siphuthumele. Inokukunceda ukunqanda imigca emihle kunye nemibimbi.
I-Retinol ngokwayo ayithinti ngqo isikhumba ngqo. Ama-enzyme ngaphakathi kwesikhumba kufuneka aguqule i-retinol ibe yi-acino acid. Kuphela xa kuguqulwa kwi-acino acid.
Oku akuyona inkqubo yangoko, nangona kunjalo. Inkqubo yokuguquka ingathatha ixesha elide. Kwakhona, ingakanani i-retinol empeleni eguqulwa ibe yi-retinoic acid ixhomekeka kwizinto ezininzi, kubandakanywa nemali ye-retinol kwimveliso ukuqala, kwaye xa ihlaziywe (ngokukodwa imveliso yakho ibe yintoni okanye ivule kangakanani ixesha). Kwaye, ngokuthakazelisayo, abanye abantu baguqula i-retinol ibe yi-retinoic acid ngokukhawuleza kunabanye.
Ngenxa yazo zonke ezi zinto, i-retinol ngumsebenzi ophantsi. Awuyi kubona ezininzi kwiindlela zeziphumo ukuya kwiinyanga ezintandathu okanye ngaphezulu. Iziphumo ziyancipha, ngoko ude usebenzise iziphumo ezingcono. Nangona kunjalo, khumbula ukuba ngelixa i-retinol yongezwa kakuhle kwixesha lakho lokunakekelwa kwesikhumba sokuguga, akusilumkiso osisimangaliso.
Kusenokwenzeka ukuba awuyi kubona utshintsho olukhulu.
Sekunjalo, iimveliso ze-retinol zinokuphucula isikhumba esithile. Kwaye iindaba ezilungileyo iimveliso ze-retinol ngokuqhelekileyo zincinci.
I-Retinol inokubangela nemiphumo emibi kakhulu, kodwa ngokuqhelekileyo ixakeka ngakumbi kune-Retin-A. Unokuthi uqaphele ukuba isikhumba sakho siphume emva kokusebenzisa imveliso ye-retinol. Ubunzima bokubetha okanye ukomisa kuqhelekile, kodwa ngokuqhelekileyo kunobumnene. Uninzi lwabantu luyakwazi ukusebenzisa i-retinol ngaphandle kwenkunkuma enkulu kodwa ukuba ulusu lwakho lubonakala lunomsindo kufuneka uyeke ukusebenzisa le mveliso.
Yintoni i-Retin-A?
I-Retin-A ngokwenene ingumgama wegama lonyango. I-Retin-A ifom ye-vitamin A.
Ngokungafani ne-retinol, i-Retin-A yonyango kuphela. Ngokuqhelekileyo isetyenziselwa ukuphatha i- acne yokugubha kunye nokuphulwa komdlalo . Isithako esisebenzayo sikaRetin-A, i-tretinoin, isetyenziselwa ukuphatha imigca emihle kunye nemibimbi, ikhanyise umbala, kwaye iphephe ukutshatyalaliswa kwamanzi ( amanqaku amnyama ashiywe ngumonakalo we- acne okanye umonakalo welanga).
I-Tretinoin iyaziwa nangokuthi i-retinoic acid, ngoko i-Retin-A ichaphazela ngqo ikhumba. Ngenxa yokuba akumele ulinde ulusu ukuba luguqulwe, i-Retin-A isebenza ngokukhawuleza kwaye inamandla kunemveliso ye-retinol. Enyanisweni, unokubona ukuphuculwa kwesikhumba ezintandathu ukuya kwiiveki ezisibhozo.
Kodwa amandla angakumbi afana nehlazo. Uyakwazi ukujonga iziphumo ezinjenge-dryness , ubomvu, ukutshisa, ukucima kunye nokukhwaza, ngelixa usebenzisa i-Retin-A xa kuthelekiswa nemveliso ye-retinol.
Ngaba i-retinol iya kunika iziphumo ezifanayo njenge-Retin-A?
Akunjalo nangona basebenza ngendlela efanayo, i-retinol ayifani ne-Retin-A. Nangona abanye bangabiza i-retinol inguqu ephezulu ye-Retin-A, ayinakutshintshana.
Ngokwenene, i-retinol ne-Retin-A yenza into efanayo. Kodwa i-retinol inobuthakathaka ngakumbi kune-Retin-A kuba okokuqala kufuneka iguqulwe ibe yi-acinoic acid ukuze isetyenziswe ngesikhumba. I-Retin-A i-retinoic acid, ngoko ingasetyenziswa ngqo ngesikhumba ngokukhawuleza xa isetyenziswa.
Ngaloo ndlela, i-Retin-A inamandla kakhulu kune-retinol. Nangona amandla aphantsi kunazo zonke i-Retin-A inamandla kuneyona mveliso ephezulu ye-retinol.
Ngamanye amaxesha i-Retinol yongezwa kwiyeza ze-OTC zamachiza, kodwa akusiyo imveliso yonyango ngokwayo. Isetyenziswe ngokuqhelekileyo njenge-anti-ager.
Retinol kunye neRetin-A: Indlela yokukhetha iMveliso elungileyo kwi-Skin yakho
Ingaba ukhetha i-retinol okanye i-Retin-A kuxhomekeke kwiinjongo zakho zokuphela. Kukho iinzuzo kunye neengxaki kumsebenzi ngamnye.
Ukuba ukhangele ukunika isikhumba sakho isikhuthazo esincinci, cima ezinye iimpawu zokuguga, kwaye awunayo ingxaki enkulu efuna ukuyiqwalasela, i-retinol iyona ndlela ikhethekileyo. Khangela i-retinol kwizonyango zonyango ezinjengama-moisturizers, ama-creams, unyango lwamehlo kunye ne-serum.
Kukho iintlobo ezahlukeneyo ze-retinol. Ngoko ngoxa ukhangele uluhlu lwezithako kwi-cream eguga, ungasayi kubona i- retinol. Kunoko, uya kubona uludwe lwe-retinol esetyenziswe kuloo mveliso ethile: i-retinal, i-retinyl palmitate, i-retinyl acetate, i-retinyl linoleate. Ephakamileyo kwisihlomelo sesithako, i-retinol ngaphezulu ukuba imveliso inayo. Ukuba idibene ekufeni, ayinayo i-retinol eninzi kwaye mhlawumbi ayiyi kusebenza kakuhle.
Ngeengxaki ezinjenge-acne, blackheads, iingxaki ze-pigmentation kunye nemigca ejulile kunye nemibimbi, i-Retin-A izokunika ingxowankulu yebuck yakho. Ewe, oku kuthetha ukuya kwi-dermatologist kwimigomo, kodwa ngexesha elide, uya kufumana iziphumo ezigqithiseleyo kunye ne-retinoid yemithi kunokuba uya kuhamba ne-over-counter-version version.
Kodwa akumele kube yinto / okanye isigqibo. I-retinol ingaba isinyathelo sokuqala esihle ngaphambi kokuba uqhube unamandla, kwaye mhlawumbi ungasichukumisa, i-Retin-A. Ulusu kancinci luya kuba yinto eqhelekileyo kuma-retinoids njengoko uyisebenzisa. Oku akuthethi ukuba asebenzi ngexesha elide; ba yenzayo. Uza kuqaphela umphumo wecala njengomile kunye nokupasa kuya kuba ngaphantsi ngaphantsi kwexesha. Ukuqala nge-over-counter-counter-retinoid product kunokuncedisa isikhumba sakho kuma-retinoids angama-topical kunye nokunciphisa imiphumo emibi xa kwaye ekugqibeleni ugxotha ukuya kwi-ordinal Retin-A.
ILizwi
Naluphi na ukubuyisela kwakhona, usebenzisa i- sunscreen iyimfuneko . I-Retinoids inokwenza ukuba ulusu lwakho lube lukhuni kakhulu ngenxa yokushisa kwelanga, ngenxa yeeseli ezintsha zesikhumba ebusweni lesikhumba sakho. Nangona ungatshatshali, umonakalo welanga usenokwenzeka. Ukukhusela isikhumba sakho, sebenzisa i-retinoid yakho ebusuku kwaye usebenzise isikrini selanga nge-SPF ye-30 okanye ngaphezulu kwantoni.
Ungaphinda ufune ukunyanzelisa isikhumba sakho kwisilya sakho esitsha sokufumana i-retinoid (le nto ingcono kakhulu xa unesifo esikhuselekileyo). Zama ukusebenzisa imveliso yakho ye-retinol nje ezimbini ukuya kwesithathu ngeveki ekuqaleni. Oku kuya kukuvumela ukuba isikhumba sakho sisetyenziswe kwi-retinol kwaye senze kube lula ukuba uya kuhlakulela. Kancinci usebenze ufike kwindawo apho ungasebenzisa umkhiqizo wakho imihla ngemihla ngaphandle kwesikhumba sakho.
I-Retinoids inokuthi ibe yongezelelo eluncedo kwindlela yokunyamekela kwesikhumba. Ukuba udinga uncedo ekufumaneni umkhiqizo we-retinoid, ugqirha wakho okanye udematologist unokukunceda ukhethe enye.
> Imithombo:
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> I-Nohynek GJ. "Inkcazo kwi-Safety of Topical Vitamin A kwi Cosmetics." I-Toxicology ye-Regulatory and Pharmacology. 2017 Oct; 89: 302-304.
> Zaenglein AL, Pathy AL, Schlosser BJ, Alikhan A, Baldwin HE, kunye. al. "Izikhokelo Zokunyamekela Ulawulo lwe-Acne Vulgaris." Umbhalo we-American Academy of Dermatology. 2016; 74 (5): 945-73.