Ziyintoni i-Cosmeceuticals? Izinzuzo, ukhuseleko kunye nendlela yokuzikhetha
I-Cosmeceuticals yinkcubeko yemveliso yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba equlethe izithako ezisebenzayo ezikwazi ukuguqula i-physiologic utshintsho kwesikhumba. Ukubeka nje, iimveliso zokunyamekela kwesikhumba aziqhelanga nje ukuba isikhumba sakho sibonakale sikhetyana kangangoko, basenokudala utshintsho kwesikhumba.
I-Cosmeceuticals Hamba umgama phakathi kwama-Cosmetics kunye neDrugs
Igama elithi "cosmeceutical" laqulunqwa ngu-Albert Kligman, MD, emva kwee-1980 njengendlela yokuchaza imveliso yokukhathalela isikhumba eyenza okungaphezu kwezonyango kodwa akuyona isilwanyana.
Kudibanisa amagama ama- cosmetics kunye namayeza.
I-Cosmeceuticals ingaphezu kweziqholo. I-Cosmetics, izinto ezifana nokuhlambulula ubuso kunye nokuzenzela, kunokuhlambulula isikhumba sakho okanye kubonakale sibukeka kakuhle, kodwa asitshintshi indlela yolusu eziphatha ngayo.
I-Cosmeceuticals, ngakwelinye icala, iqulethe izithako ezisebenzayo ezitshintsha isakhiwo somzimba kunye nokusebenza kwesikhumba. Kwaye banokwenene inzululwazi yokuxhasa le mabango.
Nangona ngamanye amaxesha kuthiwa "ibakala lonyango" ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba, izidakamizwa aziyiziyobisi. Izidakamizwa zisetyenziselwa ukunyanga, ukunyanga, okanye ukulawula imeko yonyango, kwaye ziphantsi kovavanyo olunzulu olunzulu ngaphambi kokushaya imarike. Ezinye iimveliso ezingaphezulu kwee-counter-counter, ezifana nemveliso ye-acne kunye ne-shampoos e- dandruff zingabonakala ngathi ziziqholo kodwa empeleni ziyiyobisi kuba ziphatha ingxaki.
I-Cosmeceuticals ayikwazi ukujongana neengxaki zesikhumba. Ziyasetyenziselwa injongo yeenjongo zobugcisa kwaye yindlela engeyiyo intsha yokuphucula ukubonakala kwesikhumba.
Ungabathenga phezu kwekhawuntana, kwaye awuyidingi imithi.
Akukho neMigangatho yokuSebenza yeeMveliso zeCocecetical
Nangona kukho ukuvumelana ngokubanzi phakathi kweengcali zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba malunga nokuba yiyiphi into eyenziwa yi-cosmeceutical, akukho zikhokelo ezimiselweyo kwaye akukho migaqo echaza ezi mveliso.
Akukho libhunga elilawulayo elijongene neengcambu zendalo. Ngoko, ngokwenene, igama elithi cosmeceutical lixesha lokuthengisa ngaphezu kweklasi yangempela yemveliso yesikhumba.
Le yilapho ithola inkunkuma encinane. Iimveliso ze-Cosmeceutical azidingeki ukuba ziqhube nokuvavanya ngokugqithiseleyo kunokuba zizonyango zendalo. I-Cosmeceuticals ayibanjelwe kwizinga eliphezulu. Akunakufuneka ukuba baqinisekise ukuba benza oko babango.
Enyanisweni, i-US Food and Drug Administration ayiboni ukuba igama elithi "cosmeceutical". Ngamehlo ka-FDA, i-cosmeceticals ziyimpawu zonyango okanye i-OTC iziyobisi, kuxhomekeke kumabango emveliso.
Iziyobisi zingachaza ukuba "baphatha" ingxaki, imibimbi ngomzekelo. I-cosmetic inokuthi yiphucula, iyanciphise okanye iyanciphisa imibimbi, kodwa ayikwazi ukuba ithi iyabaphatha. Ngenxa yokuba yinkqubo enzima yokufumana iziyobisi ezivunyiweyo, nokuba yi-OTC enye, iinkampani ezininzi zinquma ukuthengisa iimveliso zabo zezonyuka njengezimonyo. Banokufumana umkhiqizo kwimarike ngokukhawuleza, kwaye kuncinci kakhulu, ngokukwenza njalo. Iimangalo ze-Cosmeceutical zishiywe ngokucacileyo, ukugcina ukuthengiswa kwazo ngaphakathi kwezikhokelo zomthetho.
Izinzuzo kunye Neengozi zokusebenzisa i-Cosmeceuticals
Nangona bengenazo iziyobisi, i-cosmeceticals inikezela i-niche kwimakethe yobuhle namhlanje.
Zisetyenziselwa ukuphucula iingxaki zokuziqhenqa njenge- hyperpigmentation , i-cellulite, i-pores enkulu kunye ne-acne. Uninzi lweemveliso ze-cosmecetical, nokuba kunjalo, kukulwa nokuguga-imibimbi, ukulahleka kwe-elasticity kunye ne-tone, kunye nomonakalo kwelanga.
Inzuzo: Ufumana ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba esinamandla, ngaphezu kwekhawuntara. Ukuqaphela imiba ye-aesthetic kwesikhumba sakho, kodwa kungabi nzulu kakhulu ukufuna imithi yonyango? I-Cosmeceuticals inokunceda ukunciphisa iingxaki zezonyango ezifana nemigca emihle, ithoni yephunga engalinganiyo, okanye umbala ocolileyo. Bangakunceda ugcine isikhumba sakho esinempilo, ngaphandle kokufuna imithi.
Inzuzo: I-Cosmeceuticals inokusebenza ngokukhawuleza kunye neyeza zonyango. Ukuba okwangoku usebenzisa iyeza zonyango, i-cosmeceticals inokuphucula unyango lwakho jikelele.
Ngokomzekelo, iimveliso eziqulethe i-ceramide zinganciphisa ukoma obangelwa ngu-prescription prescription. Buza i-dermatologist yakho ukuba kukho nayiphi na imveliso ayiphakamisa yona, kwaye ungalokothi ungeze imveliso kwindlela yakho yokwelashwa ngaphandle kokuba i-derm yakulungile.
Ingozi: Ikhumba lakho liyacaphuka. Ngenxa yokuba iimveliso ze-cosmesceutical zingaba nexabiso eliphezulu lesithako esisebenzayo, kukho ithuba abanokuyicaphukisa isikhumba sakho. Oku kuyinyani ngokukodwa xa kuthengiswa iimveliso eziqulethe izithako ezifana ne-alpha hydroxy acids okanye i-retinol. Ukuba isikhumba sakho sibomvu, sitshintshile, sitshitshise okanye sitshise, siyeke ukusebenzisa le mveliso uze ugqirha ugqirha ukuba awuphuculanga.
Ingozi: Awufumani oko uhlawule. Umngcipheko omkhulu wokusebenzisa naluphi na umkhiqizo we-cosmeceutical ngumkhiqizo awuhambisani namabango ayo. Ingathembisa ukwenza X, Y, no- Z , kodwa ekupheleni kosuku ukuba loo mveliso ayinayo izithako ezifanelekileyo kumanqanaba afanelekileyo akuyi kuyenza enkulu ukuphucula isikhumba sakho. Khumbula, i-cosmeceticals ayifuni ukubonakalisa ukuba isebenza kuyo yonke into. Ngoko, unokuba ulahle imali eninzi kwimveliso engenzi lutho kwesikhumba sakho.
Ukukhetha izithako eziPhezulu kakhulu zeCoseceictical for the Best Results
Kalula nje ukuba umkhiqizo ubhalisa ngokwawo u-cosmeceutical awuthetha ukuba uza kuzisa izithembiso zawo. Eyona ndlela efanelekileyo yokuqinisekisa ukuba ufumana umkhiqizo wezityalo eziyimpumelelo kukuba ukhethe omnye oqulethe izithako ezixhaswa yisayensi. Kukho ezinye izithako eziye zafunda ngokugqithiseleyo kunabanye kwaye zibonise ukuba zinoqobo, iziphumo zezinto eziphilayo kwesikhumba.
Izithako ze-Cosmeceutical ngokuyininzi ezingenakunyulwa kwiziko lemfundo, ngoko ke into esiyayaziyo malunga nalezi zithako zivela kwiphando eyenziwa yicandelo lezonyango ngokwayo. Sekunjalo, kukho ubungqina obuhle bokuthi izithako ezithile zineenzuzo ezibonakalayo kwesikhumba. Ukukhangela ezi zithako kwi-cosmeceutical kuya kunceda uqinisekise ukuba ufumana umveliso ophezulu osebenzayo.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) iphandwa kakhulu. Ezinye zezona zinto zinenzuzo kakhulu yi- glycolic acid , i-lactic acid, i- malic acid , i-mandelic acid, kunye ne-acid acenzi. I-Alpha hydroxy acids yandisa ukhenkcola kwesikhumba, ishiya isikhumba sakho sibe siphumo, siphume, kwaye konke-kukhanya ngakumbi. I-AHA zisetyenziselwa ukutshabalalisa umonakalo kwelanga kunye nokunyanzeliswa komzimba.
I-Alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) yintsholongwane ene-antioxidant enceda ukukhusela ulusu malunga nomonakalo omkhulu wokukhulula. Ngokuqhelekileyo kufakwa kwi-creams yeeyes kunye ne-serum kuba ikwazi ukuphucula izibonda ezimnyama. I-ALA inokunyusa ukomelela kwesikhumba nokunciphisa iipolisi ezinkulu .
Iikhamera zibalulekileyo zokwakha kwesikhumba. Ibango labo lokuzibiza likwazi ukugcina i-skin hydrated. I-Ceramide inokunceda ukunciphisa ukulahlekelwa kwamanzi epidermal (okanye i-TEWL). Le ndlela yindlela eqhelekileyo yokuthi igcina umswakama kwesikhumba sakho, kunokuyivumela ukuba ikhuphuke. Ikwajongana neembonakalo zemizila emihle njengoko ihluma kwaye iphosa isikhumba.
I-Green green iphezulu kakhulu kwiipolphenol, ngakumbi i-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). I-EGCG inciphisa ukuvuvukala, ivuselela imveliso ye-collagen, kwaye ikhusela umonakalo we-UV. Oku akuthethi i-green tea yindawo efanelekileyo ye-sunscreen; ayiyo. Kodwa iimveliso zelanga zelanga eziqulethe i-tea extract zingakunika ukhuseleko olongezelelweyo kwimpembelelo yelanga elukhumbeni.
I-acid ye-Hyaluronic ngokwemvelo ivela kwesikhumba kwaye iyancipha njengoko uneminyaka yobudala. I-acid ye-Hyaluronic inceda ukugcina ulusu lukhuni kwaye luqinile. Njengoko i-ceramide, i-hyaluronic acid ishiya isikhumba sibheke kwaye sihamba kakuhle.
I-Niacinamide (i-vitamin B3) yenye enye i-antioxidant. I-Niacinamide ikhulisa amanqanaba okuhambisa amanzi esikhumbeni. Kwakulungile ukuhlwa kwamathambo akho ngokunciphisa ubomvu, ukutshabalalisa kunye nokuchithwa kwegazi. Esi sithako sikhanyisa isikhumba kwaye sikhusele ukunyamezela okuza kuthi sibudala.
Iipeptides zifutshane ze-amino acid eziqhelekileyo ezifumaneka kwilusu. Iipeptides zinokukhuthaza imveliso ye-collagen, ukuphucula ukuqina kwesikhumba kunye nokuthungwa ngelixa kunciphisa imigca emihle. Imibuzo ihlala, nangona kunjalo, ukuba iip peptides inokuthi ixhamle ngokukodwa xa isetyenziswe ngokusemgangathweni kwimveliso yolondolozo lwesikhumba.
I-Retinol kunye ne-retinaldehyde (ukuba ingadideki kunye nemithi yonyango i-Retin-A) isetyenziselwa ukunciphisa ukuchithwa kwegazi kunye nemigca emihle. Baphinde bashiye isikhumba sibe ngcono, kwaye banokukhusela ekulahlekeni kwe-collagen. I-Retinaldehyde ngokukhethekileyo iboniswe ukunciphisa imibimbi, nokuba isetyenziswe.
I-Soy icingelwa ukuba ikhusele ekulahlekeni kwe-collagen kunye nokucuthwa kwesikhumba okwenzeka xa uneminyaka yobudala. Ezinye iingcaphephe zibonisa ukuba nazo zivuselela imveliso ye-collagen.
I-Vitamin C yi-antioxidant eyaziwayo ekwazi ukuvuselela indalo ye-collagen (ngokukodwa i-L-ascorbic acid). Kodwa ayizinzile kakhulu kwaye ilahlekelwe ngokukhawuleza kwayo emva kokuba imveliso ivuliwe kwaye ibonakaliswe emoyeni. Iimveliso zevithamini C uzakufumana iziphumo ezilungileyo zivela kulezo zipakethe kwiipompo zomoya (ezithintela umoya ukuba ungene ngaphakathi kwebhotile kwimveliso) okanye kwii-capsules ezingasetyenziswayo.
I-Vitamin E ilungile ilusu elonakaliswe ilanga, kwaye linokukunceda ekukhuseleni ukuchithwa kwe-elastin. Kusebenza kakuhle xa ubhanjiswa ne-vitamin C. Njenge-vitamin C, nokuba kunjalo, ingazinzi kwaye ihlaziye ngokukhawuleza.
Kukho inani elingaqhelekanga lezithako ezisetyenziselwa kwi-cosmeceuticals, kwaye ezininzi ziyaziswa zonke ixesha. Olu alukho uluhlu olupheleleyo, kodwa kunokuba lube lunokuthi luqalise ngezinye zezona zinto ziyaziwayo kwaye ziphandwa.
ILizwi
I-cosmeceutical eyenziwe kakuhle inokusinceda ukuphucula ithoni, ukuthungwa, kunye nokukhanya kwesikhumba sakho. Kodwa khumbula i-cosmeceuticals isengumkhiqizo wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, ngoko ke kufuneka uqikelele into enokuyenza. Abayi kuphelisa ngokupheleleyo imibimbi, kwaye abayikunika iziphumo ngokumalunga neenkqubo ezinzulu ezenziwa kwiofisi ye-dermatology (njengamayeza alamachiza , ii-peels, okanye i- filler fillers .) Kodwa ukuba usebenzisa iimveliso zakho ze-cosmesceutical njalo, unokubona ukuphuculwa kwesikhumba sakho.
Musa ukulibala ngenye yezinto ezibalulekileyo zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, nangona kunjalo: i- sunscreen ! Oku kufuneka kusetyenziswe imihla ngemihla ukukhusela umonakalo njengokuguga kwasekuqaleni kunye nokuxhaswa kwe-hyperpigmentation, kunye nokuxhasa imveliso yakho ye-cosmesceutical.
Xa ukhetha umkhiqizo we-cosmesceutical kuqala ujonge izithako ezinesayensi emva kwabo. Kuzama ukugxuma kwi-bandwagon kunye nesithako esinokoqobo, kodwa ukuba asikho ubungqina bokuba uphakamise amabango onokukrazula imali phantsi.
Ukuba udinga uncedo ukhetha umkhiqizo ococekileyo, inqanaba lakho elifanelekileyo lokuzibuza i-esthetician okanye, ngokuqinisekileyo, i-dermatologist yakho into ekucebisa ngayo.
> Imithombo:
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> Lee CM. Iminyaka engama-50 yoPhando kunye noPhuhliso lweCosmeceuticals: I-Contemporary Review. " Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Ngo-2016 Dec; 15 (4): 527-539.
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> Pilkington SJ, uBelden S, Miller RA. "I-Tricky Tear Trough: Ukuhlaziywa kwama-Topic Cosmeceticals for Rehabitual Skin Rejuvenation." Umbhalo we-Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2015 Sep; 8 (9): 39-47.
> Ulawulo lweZiko lokuTya kunye neDrug. "I-Cosmetics Guidance & Regulation." Ikhasi lasekhaya laseKhaya lokuLawula nokuDakisa . Isebe lezeMpilo leSebe leMelika, ngomhla we-21 kuMatshi 2016.